ADVICE ON WHAT TO ORDER

[maxndale]

I just ordered a lee press kit and some dies.  I plan on reloading for just recreational shooting to start with.  I would like to reload my 30-06 bolt action, my M4 .223 and my 9mm glock.  My question is as I look at bullets, powders, primers etc.  I am lost.  What powders would be a good strarting point?  Anyway any starters advice would be greatly appreciated.

[RustyFN]

Welcome to reloading.
Get a good manual or two. I don't have any experience with 30-06. As far as 223 you will want to match the bullet to the twist rate of the barrel. For example my AR has a 1:9 twist rate. That will stabalize a bullet up to 69 grains. For a heavier bullet you will want a 1:7 twist. My two favorite powders for 223 are Winchester W748 and Hodgdon H335. For pistol a lot of people will suggest to start with a medium burning powder. I started with Hodgdon Titegroup powder and still use it. I perfer 124 grain bullets. Hope this helps. Load safe and have fun.

[maxndale]

thanks for the info.  I have been dinking around a little bit on the internet.  I have a question for you when you look at loading sheets and they specify a specific powder, grain amount and bullet.  As far as the bullet is it just the weight you worry about of the design of the bullet also.  Not sure if that makes sense, but say they specify a speer 65g FMJ, can you use a Nosler 65gr. SP?

Also any advice an a good reloading maunual.  I ordered the Lee manual with the kit.

[dhhardw]

The Lee Manual is a good one.  As time goes on, you will end up with a collection. 

For .223, I have used several different powders with good results.  Availability may be an issue, and I have used loads with several powders so that no matter what is available, I can shoot.  Winchester 748 is reported to be the biggest selling powder.  I like it.  Winchester claims that it is "easier" on the barrel than any other powder because of its burn rate.  I have also used Alliant's Reloader 10X for bullets lighter than 63 grains.  It was developed specifically for the .223.  For bullets 62 grains and heavier, I have used Alliant's Reloader 15.  In the Accurate line, I have used 2460 and 2230.  2230 was reportedly developed specifically for the .223. (Get it? 2230=.223). 

Also, note that Alliant's reloading guide is available for free from Alliant.  It is great.  Also, Reliant has an interactive reloading guide on their website.  Accurate has an online reloading guide for its powders.

I assume that the shape of the bullet is important also.  This may be more important in pistol calibers than rifle.  But the metal on the bearing surface of the bullet is also important (lead vs. copper plated vs. copper jacket, etc).  This is important due to the varying amounts of pressure needed to get the bullet down the barrel.  This is explained in your reloading manual.  (Of course you have to read it, sorry.  No "The Great Carnack" in reloading  .

Good luck with your reloading.

David

[NuJudge]

"As far as the bullet is it just the weight you worry about of the design of the bullet also. " 

A lot of the time, you have to worry about bullet designs.  For Example, Hornady makes two very different 75gr bullets.  There are several different types of 80gr bullets which require very different data.  For 52, 53 and 55gr bullets, so long as you're not near maximum and both bullets are flat based, or both are boat tails, not much difference in my experience. 

Regarding bullets, figure out what you want to shoot at.  If it's targets, and you want really good accuracy, probably go with Sierra Match Kings.  If you're shooting at deer and you want really good performance, probably go with Nosler partitions.  In time, your rifle will indicate what it likes beyond these oversimplifications.  My rifles have always liked Remington bulk bullets and Hornady also.

For you, you might want to pick a powder that will work well in both of the rifle calibers you want to shoot.  I have had terrific results in the .223 and .30-'06 with both of the 4895 powders (Hodgdon and IMR versions).  The drawback to 4895 is that it is a stick-form powder, and does not go through powder measures easily or uniformly.  I do use other powders in both calibers.  I particularly like Winchester 748 in the .223 with 52gr bullets.  I like Reloader 15 in the .223 with 80gr bullets.  I like IMR or H 4350 in the .30-'06 with 180gr bullets.  These other powders with these bullet weights, if a rifle will not shoot well with them they never will shoot well with anything.  The 748 is nice in that it meters well.

For 9mm, I load mostly 125gr Lead bullets, and I want a powder that bulks up well in the case, so I can SEE a double charge or a charge that is less than full.  A powder I use a lot of is Winchester 231.  It meters well.  I used to use a lot of Unique in the 9mm:  it bulks well and gives good results but does not meter well. 

I like Winchester primers.  A bit harder than most and a bit hotter than most. 

[maxndale]

thanks for all the fantastic information.  I recieved my kit and started reading the manual.  I was looking at the loading info in the LEE II book and for example H414 powder 54gr w/150gr jacketed bullet.  No more specific bullet info.  So as long as I start at the starting load and a 150gr jackedted style bullet I shouldn't blow myself up?

Also what is a good economical bullet for just target shooting with the .06?

thanks again!  Happy NEW year.

[zebcoboy]

"As far as the bullet is it just the weight you worry about of the design of the bullet also. " 

A lot of the time, you have to worry about bullet designs.  For Example, Hornady makes two very different 75gr bullets.  There are several different types of 80gr bullets which require very different data.  For 52, 53 and 55gr bullets, so long as you're not near maximum and both bullets are flat based, or both are boat tails, not much difference in my experience. 

Regarding bullets, figure out what you want to shoot at.  If it's targets, and you want really good accuracy, probably go with Sierra Match Kings.  If you're shooting at deer and you want really good performance, probably go with Nosler partitions.  In time, your rifle will indicate what it likes beyond these oversimplifications.  My rifles have always liked Remington bulk bullets and Hornady also.

For you, you might want to pick a powder that will work well in both of the rifle calibers you want to shoot.  I have had terrific results in the .223 and .30-'06 with both of the 4895 powders (Hodgdon and IMR versions).  The drawback to 4895 is that it is a stick-form powder, and does not go through powder measures easily or uniformly.  I do use other powders in both calibers.  I particularly like Winchester 748 in the .223 with 52gr bullets.  I like Reloader 15 in the .223 with 80gr bullets.  I like IMR or H 4350 in the .30-'06 with 180gr bullets.  These other powders with these bullet weights, if a rifle will not shoot well with them they never will shoot well with anything.  The 748 is nice in that it meters well.

For 9mm, I load mostly 125gr Lead bullets, and I want a powder that bulks up well in the case, so I can SEE a double charge or a charge that is less than full.  A powder I use a lot of is Winchester 231.  It meters well.  I used to use a lot of Unique in the 9mm:  it bulks well and gives good results but does not meter well. 

I like Winchester primers.  A bit harder than most and a bit hotter than most. 

Ive shot so many powders in 223 I can't recall them all. There is one outstanding shooter that's 4320. The most accurate loads I have ever shoot have been with 4320. If you are shooting in an auto loader you must crimp cannalure or not get a Lee crimping die.